When I was younger I thought Arabia must be a land that resembled something of a cross between Aladdin (the Disney adaptation) and the epic scenery of Peter O’Toole’s Lawrence of Arabia. Yet, upon my arrival in Bahrain, I found it to be radically different from that vision. In fact, most of the places I have visited in Persian Gulf have been significantly less fantastical and although some retain elements that are traditional, much of what I found was sterile and modern. Places like Doha and Dubai evoke a sense of modern decadence and delusion, with their tall glass phallic symbols and dusty surroundings devoid of color and yet full of asphalt and artificial light. In the sole Arab country I have visited outside of the Gulf, Jordan, the countryside and squat buildings reminded me of a poor European country, and even the remarkable historical landmarks like Petra and the wondrous natural beauty of the Dead Sea transported me to a very un-Arab world (I did not make it to Wadi Rum, made famous by Lawrence). Oman, was the first place where the imaginations of my childhood were realized. Continue reading